November 2007
At 7:44am Saturday morning, 21 April 2007, I logged the end of what should be certified by the Iron Butt Association as my 19th IBA ride and 8th Bun Burner Gold. On this run I covered 1,614 miles in 22 hours 47 minutes for an MTH (miles traveled per hour) of 70.84. This is far from being an IBA record, but it did top my previous personal best of 1,602 miles in 22 hours 40 minutes and 70.67 MTH, and marked the second time I rode “over 1600 in under 23”. My targeted route was from Miami Beach north on I-95 through Jacksonville FL and Savannah GA, turning west on I-26 in SC through Columbia and Spartanburg to Asheville NC, then back the same way.
My ride began at 8:57am the previous Friday morning. The 24-hour forecast on Nws.Noaa.gov was “clear and mild” all along my planned route, so I was looking forward to a dry and enjoyable run. There were no cager collisions along the I-95 Killing Corridor that morning, so it was pretty much smooth sailing off the Beach and up through Dade and Broward County. That changed quickly just south of West Palm Beach, where I ran into the tail end of a miles-long traffic jam. I immediately put my weaving skills to work, whitelining and sidelining my way forward through one narrow mirrored passageway after another. I soon made it to the head of the three-lane queue, where the culprits turned out to be three caution-lighted road construction pickups intentionally holding traffic back for some unseen equipment that their tailgate signs said was crossing the highway. Fortunately though, just as I pulled in behind the truck on the left, one of the other two blew its horn and all three pulled over. This delay turned out to be sort of a blessing in disguise, as what I had before me now was open lanes all the way through West Palm and on into Martin County. I did not forego the obvious opportunity to open my throttle.
The weather wizards blew it on the “clear” part of the forecast, as gray cloud cover blocked the sun for most of my way north to Jacksonville and then on up I-95 through Georgia. But no rain fell and the temperature was “mild”, so I was content with that. Then about 80 miles into South Carolina, the clouds dissipated and a warm sun was shining down as I exited onto I-26 and headed across the Palmetto State.
What you can see of South Carolina from I-95 is fairly mundane. But the further northwest I rode on I-26, the more scenic the view became. The sprawling capital city of Columbia looked a little bit like Austin, and the rolling verdant foothills around Spartanburg had a down home country appeal that reminded me of central Missouri. As I crested one of them, the smokey silhouette of the Blue Ridge Mountains loomed on the late afternoon horizon, and I knew I was getting close to North Carolina. I crossed the state line with just enough daylight left to take in the view and fully enjoy all the twists and curves and climbs and descents that go along with riding a motorcycle through the mountains. I was a surprised that the green of spring was not fully in the trees yet, but rolling over the peaks and riding down through the valleys was nonetheless a welcome reprieve from the straight, flat roads of South Florida.
It was right around sunset when I rolled into Asheville. This city of 75,000 or so is best known as the site of the Vanderbilt family’s Biltmore Estate … upon which sits the 175,000 square foot Biltmore House … which with 250 rooms, 65 fireplaces, an indoor pool and a bowling alley, ranks as the largest private home in America. Asheville is a beautiful place, and a popular tourist attraction for many. In my case, however, it was simply the targeted turnaround point for this Iron Butt run. My bike’s clock (from Clocks4Bikes.com) and odometer told me I could add a few more miles, though, so I continued north out of town on US 19/23.
About 20 miles shy of the Tennessee state line, I stopped for gas and an ATM slip to mark to my turnaround at the BP Payless Food Mart & Liquor Store in the small mountain town of Weaverville. Judging from the inbred look some of the clientele, I speculated as to the depth of the local gene pool, and wondered whether the makers of Deliverance might have done their casting calls there. But what the heck, the narrow-eyed gal at the register using a 12-gauge slug as a lip stud had a “Harley” tattoo covering half her left arm, so I figured they were biker-friendly. But then again, maybe “Harley” was her boyfriend … or brother … or both. Anyway, I logged the stop and began my 807-mile ride back to the Beach.
Until Next Time … Ride Long, Ride Free!

Members of the KROMAPOSA tribe purchase sixty grand plus chrome penis extensions from the Billys, Eddies or Paulies, then have them shipped directly to the doorsteps of their secluded ranch houses, private lodges or high-dollar hotels in or near Sturgis proper. They rarely venture far from town without their wrench in a chase car, and never mount their shiny steeds in anything less than ideal weather conditions. KROMAPOSAs can often be seen wobbling their gleaming chariots up and down Main or Lazelle … dragging their bared legs and tennis-shoed feet for balance as they make their way to the Broken Spoke or Full Throttle Saloon … where their drop-dead gorgeous gold digger raises her hot-panted ass off the bike (hopefully) just before the KROMAPOSA drops it trying to park.
Members of the TOWAPOSA tribe own top-of-the-line cruisers, full-dress touring bikes and Geezer-Glides, which they proudly trailer wherever they go. No motorcycling event is too far away for these hardy long-drivers, who truly “live to tow”. TOWAPOSAs are the most rapidly growing of all the RYDABYKA tribes found in Sturgis. They can be identified by the oversized HOG chapter patches that often cover their vests, and the Harley-Davidson dealership shirts they always wear beneath them. TOWAPOSAs rarely ride alone, and groups of their immaculately clean bikes can usually be seen parked in neat rows at all Sturgis area bars, restaurants and tourist traps. Unless it’s raining, of course, in which case you can expect to find them closely clustered under the nearest awning, bridge or overpass.
Members of the POPAWILI tribe tend to be younger than most other RYDABYKAs. This is partly because they are often rebellious youths who have broken away from the more conventional tribes, and partly because these Crazy Horsemen ride like there is no tomorrow, which frees them from wasting a lot of time worrying about the concerns that come with old age. Despite the shortened life expectancy assured by their high-speed stunting, this tribe’s numbers continue to swell as the attraction of the adrenalin rush brought on by doing 12 o’clock wheelies, biscuit-eater stoppies and switchback burnouts outweighs the attrition of Natural Selection. Although spotting a POPAWILI at Sturgis was once like finding a virgin in a whorehouse, the colorful blurs of their crotch rockets blazing down I-90 are increasingly commonplace.
Rarest of all in Sturgis are the ELDIWINIs. Should you encounter one, expect them to look lost … because they probably are … most likely due to a bad GPS routing. Sturgis is, after all, the Mecca of “…the Hardly Maggot lifestyle biker, the chrome and leather crowd” that ELDIWINIs loathe and fear as much as their guiding satellites do sunspots. Perhaps a result of in-breeding, many ELDIWINIs suffer from AMHA (Alligator Mouth, Hummingbird Ass), the symptoms of which they regularly project across the Internet, but rarely in personal encounters with the dreaded chrome and leather types. ELDIWINIs are easily identified because they place blind faith in ATGATT, wearing all their gear all the time. They are most likely to be spotted on the side of the road … looking eerily astronautical in their Shoei brain bucket and seven hundred dollar Aerostich suit … with their Oxtar Matrix glove-leather booties planted softly beside their fubarred foreign ride … combining the marvels of satellite positioning and cellular communications to report with four-digit locational precision the demise of their final drive.
Once as plentiful as the blades of grass on the prairie, the MOTOHICAN tribe is now going the way of the buffalo. Like the bison before them, the thunder from the engines of thousands of MOTOHICAN cycles converging on Sturgis every August once shook the very ground for hundreds of miles around. But alas, those days of unbridled freedom and glory are waning, as each year more and more of these riders forsake the ways of their ancestors, abandon the exhilaration of wind in their faces, and put their horses in their carts. Despite their dwindling numbers, it is easy to pick the members of this tribe out of the crowd at the great gathering: Just look for the riders with raccoon sunburns, blistered noses and grit-encrusted fingernails … wearing well-worn leathers adorned with serious pins and soiled patches … smiling and sitting proudly on theirs, the grungiest of all motorcycles. These will be THE LAST OF THE MOTOHICANS.
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